Reflections on Fashion Policy and Collective Action
PLUS: Front Row to Front Bench Podcast: In Conversation with Kate Turnbull, The Secret Dyery
Last week, I had the privilege of delivering a lecture to a group of bright, emerging designers at the Nike RM72 Fashion Programme. Other speakers included Sarah Mower MBE, Vikram Menon, who acts as financial advisor to many new designers showing at London Fashion Week and Lulu Kennedy from Fashion East. The designers were selected by Stavros Karelis, Founder of iconic fashion concept store Machine A, which means the bar was set high, speaking to the best upcoming design talent in the UK.
The seminar, titled UK Policy Around Fashion, wasn’t just an exploration of policy; it was a dialogue about the intersection of creativity, commerce, and activism. The students were eager to learn, and their questions reflected a hunger for clarity in an industry that’s often opaque.
Preparing for this lecture was no small feat. The PowerPoint deck I presented was the culmination of weeks of research, collaboration, and distillation of complex policy challenges into actionable insights. It wasn’t just about explaining laws or frameworks; it was about bridging the gap between policy and practice, showing how decisions made in Parliament ripple through supply chains, design studios, and retail floors. But beyond the policies, this lecture—and this article—is a call to action. It’s a reminder of the power of collective activism in shaping an industry that reflects our values.
Setting the Stage: Why Policy Matters in Fashion
The UK fashion industry is a cultural and economic powerhouse, contributing £109.9 billion annually and supporting over 714,000 jobs. It’s an ecosystem of creativity, craftsmanship, and commerce, but it’s also vulnerable. Since Brexit, we’ve faced trade barriers, talent shortages, and rising operational costs, particularly for the small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) that form 90% of the sector.
These challenges formed the backdrop of my lecture. I wanted the students to understand that policy isn’t a distant or abstract concept—it’s the scaffolding on which the industry is built. From sustainability goals to labour rights, policy decisions shape everything, right down to the fabrics on their cutting tables. And while it’s tempting to see these challenges as insurmountable, they’re also opportunities for transformation.
Lessons from the Deck
The presentation I delivered was structured around four key policy areas: sustainability, trade, workforce development, and innovation. Each of these areas is a nexus of challenges and opportunities, and each requires both individual and collective action to navigate.
Sustainability: Responsibility and Opportunity
We started with sustainability—a pressing issue that is reshaping every industry. The UK’s Environment Act and the EU’s Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) regulations are pushing the fashion sector towards more sustainable practices. But these policies come with hurdles, especially for SMEs, which often lack the resources to adapt quickly.
I highlighted the potential in using deadstock fabrics and embracing circular economy models. Initiatives like Textiles 2030 and grants from Innovate UK provide a roadmap for designers who want to lead with purpose. One student asked if sustainability was a “luxury” for larger brands. My answer was simple: sustainability isn’t optional; it’s essential. And for smaller brands, it’s a chance to innovate and stand out.
Trade: Navigating the New Landscape
Brexit has reshaped our trading relationships, with clothing exports to the EU dropping by 60% since 2019. For designers, this means navigating a maze of customs rules and tariffs, which can feel overwhelming. I shared strategies like focusing on local supply chains and leveraging UK Trade Access Programmes to mitigate these challenges.
Trade policies are complex, but the takeaway was clear: adaptability is key. Designers need to stay informed and proactive, finding ways to thrive in a post-Brexit world. As I told the students, challenges like these often spark the kind of innovation that defines industries.
Workforce: The Talent Conundrum
The third area was workforce development. The loss of EU talent and restrictive visa rules have created a significant skills gap in the UK. Programmes like T Levels in fashion and textiles are a step in the right direction, but the pipeline from education to industry remains fractured.
For the students, this was personal. They are the future workforce, but they’re entering an industry that hasn’t fully recovered from Brexit’s disruptions. I emphasised the importance of collaboration—between universities, designers, and policymakers—to rebuild a strong talent pipeline.
Innovation: Designing the Future
Finally, we looked at innovation. The fashion industry is ripe for transformation, with emerging technologies like AI and advanced materials opening up new possibilities. But innovation requires investment, and many SMEs struggle to access the necessary funding.
I encouraged the students to think beyond traditional models. From AI-assisted pattern-making to circular production systems, the future of fashion is one where creativity meets technology. And as innovators, they have the chance to shape that future.
Beyond Policy: The Power of Collective Activism
While policies provide the framework, it’s activism that drives real change. This was a theme I returned to throughout the lecture. Collective action—whether it’s lobbying for better trade agreements or advocating for ethical labour practices—has always been a force for progress in fashion.
I spoke about the work of All-Party Parliamentary Groups (APPGs) like those for Textiles and Fashion and Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion. These groups play a crucial role in influencing policy, but they need industry voices to guide their priorities. As designers, students have a unique perspective to contribute, and their collective voice can amplify the changes we need.
This is why I believe in the power of platforms like Fashion Roundtable. By bringing together designers, policymakers, and activists, we create a space for dialogue and action. It’s a reminder that while the challenges we face are systemic, the solutions are collective.
Reflections and Looking Ahead
Delivering this lecture was a reminder of the resilience and creativity that define the fashion industry. The students’ questions were sharp, their ideas inspiring, and their optimism contagious. They reminded me that while the road ahead is challenging, it’s also full of possibility.
As I write this, I’m struck by how much we have to gain from collective activism. The challenges facing the UK fashion industry—trade barriers, talent shortages, sustainability—aren’t insurmountable. But they require all of us to play a part, whether it’s lobbying for better policies, mentoring the next generation, or simply making more thoughtful choices as designers and consumers.
This isn’t just about policy or activism; it’s about the kind of industry we want to build. An industry that values creativity and ethics as much as commerce. An industry that leads with purpose. And most importantly, an industry that thrives because we chose to act together.
So, as we move forward, let’s remember this: change doesn’t happen in isolation. It happens when we come together—designers, policymakers, educators, and consumers—to create the future we want to see.
Front Row to Front Bench Podcast: In Conversation with Kate Turnbull, The Secret Dyery
For this episode of the Front Row to Front Bench podcast, Harriet Flecther-Gilhuys speaks with Kate Turnbull from The Secret Dyery where they discuss the world of natural dyes and how they can be incorporated into supply chains and regenerative practices.
Kate Turnbull is natural dyeing practitioner, educator and advocate. She divides her time between Headington School, Oxford as Eco Lead and in her dye house in Oxfordshire, working either on her own projects or collaborations. Recent collaborations have included suspending naturally-dyed plant based fibres above the Chelsea Flower Show ‘Dye Garden for Fashion Revolution’, producing a unique range of naturally hand-dyed dresses for Anna Mason London and developing a natural, seasonal colour palette for a project at The Centre for Sustainability.
Kate has an MA in Fashion & Textiles from Central St Martins, is honored to be represented by The Guild of Master Craftsmen and is a member of The Society of Dyers and Colourists. In 2022 she was nominated for Teacher of the Year for designing and implementing the country's first eco A Level textiles course.
BSU Textiles Takeover at the Holburne Museum
By Alix Coombs
Last Friday, Bath Spa University’s Textile students took over the Holburne Museum in Bath as part of the Museum’s ‘Up Late’ event series, which takes place on the last Friday of each month. I went along to check out the pop-up and catch up on what the students have been working on.
It was a lively evening, with a steady flow of visitors that included students, proud parents, and members of the community. The BSU Textiles students proudly showcased their work, a lot of which was inspired by the Museum’s own collections. Wandering the museum floors and observing the exhibits, it was inspiring to see the students’ work immersed in the culture and history of the region, and to observe how they were able to draw inspiration from artifacts such as Sir Thomas Holburne’s silver spoons. There was even student work available for purchase, including screen printed tote bags and silk scarves.
As well as showcasing their work the students were also running a series of workshops, including machine knitting, screen printing, embroidery and knitting or crochet. Learning to knit has been on my to do list for some time now, so I sat down with the students and got to work. My very knowledgeable teachers were second year textiles students who were so passionate about what they study and eager to chat all things knitting, wool, dyes and design. They did a brilliant job of showing me how to knit, and with 3 whole rows achieved I’ll be off to the store this week to source my own wool and needles and create my first masterpiece – or just a very obviously homemade scarf.
All of the students I spoke with had the same enthusiastic energy, and it was wonderful to be able to engage and understand their work through the portfolios on display and workshops being taught, right up to their final products for sale. It was a lovely evening, and I look forward to stopping by future Friday pop-ups at the Holburne Museum.
Fashion Roundtable: Our New Board Members
We are pleased to welcome two new members to the Fashion Roundtable Board!
John McNally, Former Scottish National Party MP for Falkirk
Jenny Holloway, CEO FashionCapital / Founder Chair Fashion-Enter
Fashion Roundtable build active partnerships with industry experts, business leaders and sustainable innovators, to improve and support the fashion industry, ensuring the voices of the workers and businesses are heard by developing independent evidence-based data insights, research, and reports.
Fashion Roundtable is a not-for-profit, non-partisan, independent voice
Why Buy Now: The Shopping Conspiracy is a Wake-Up Call for Fashion
By Alix Coombs
It’s no secret that the fashion industry has a problem rooted in overproduction, exploitation, and a never-ending cycle of consumption. Netflix’s newly released documentary Buy Now: The Shopping Conspiracy takes this issue and lays it bare, exposing the inner workings of an economy that thrives on encouraging us to consume more than we need, at a pace we can’t sustain.
The film doesn’t just ask why we shop, it asks how we’re made to shop. From the carefully engineered allure of ‘limited-time offers’ to the manipulative algorithms that target us online, the documentary shines a harsh light on the machinery driving consumerism. And, predictably, it’s the fashion industry that plays a starring role in this system, with fast fashion at the forefront of the overconsumption epidemic.
Buy Now is an uncomfortable but necessary watch. While a lot of the blame often falls on consumers for falling prey to the convenience of cheap, disposable fashion, the documentary is an important reminder of why we need to hold brands and corporations accountable for the role they play in relentlessly targeting consumers, and how they do it. As brands tout sustainability slogans and greenwashed campaigns, they often fail to address the fundamental issue: the industry is still producing far too much, far too fast.
What’s striking about Buy Now is how it frames shopping as a deliberate construct, one that ties consumerism to personal identity, self-worth, and even morality. It’s a system we’ve all bought into, literally and figuratively. But the film also challenges us to imagine a different way forward, where mindful consumption and meaningful production replace the never ending stream of ‘new in’ that seems to be coming at us faster than ever before.
This isn’t just a film for the curious shopper; it’s a call to action for everyone—designers, retailers, policymakers, and yes, consumers—who believes the fashion industry can and must do better. If the sector is serious about sustainability, it’s time to move beyond surface-level fixes and dismantle the systems that profit from waste and exploitation.
What the New EU General Product Safety Regulation (GPSR) Means for the UK Fashion Industry
By Alix Coombs
The European Union’s General Product Safety Regulation (GPSR), which replaces the 2001 General Product Safety Directive, marks a significant update in product safety standards within the EU. This new regulation, effective from December 2024, introduces stricter rules aimed at ensuring products sold within the EU meet robust safety standards, with a particular focus on protecting consumers from emerging risks, such as those posed by connected and digital products.
While the UK is no longer a member of the EU, UK fashion businesses exporting to the EU must understand and comply with GPSR to maintain market access. However, details about how the regulation will operate in practice and its full implications are still emerging, leaving many businesses uncertain about how best to prepare.
Key Changes Under GPSR
The GPSR brings several notable changes that will significantly impact UK businesses exporting to the EU. It expands its scope to cover all consumer products, including textiles, apparel, and accessories. Products incorporating digital components, such as wearable technology, will face increased scrutiny, adding layers of complexity to compliance for innovative fashion items.
The regulation strengthens market surveillance, granting EU authorities enhanced powers to enforce safety rules, including in online marketplaces. This means businesses will need robust internal quality assurance processes to ensure their products meet safety standards, regardless of whether they are sold physically or digitally.
Additionally, the GPSR emphasises sustainability and traceability, aligning with the EU’s broader sustainability agenda. Fashion brands will need to prioritise supply chain transparency to meet these expectations, especially as consumers increasingly demand ethical and sustainable practices. The regulation also introduces enhanced documentation requirements, requiring companies to provide comprehensive safety documentation, clear labelling, user manuals, and accurate technical files.
However, much of the practical guidance on these requirements remains unclear. Businesses may face challenges interpreting how specific rules apply to their operations, adding to the uncertainty surrounding compliance.
Implications for the UK Fashion Industry
One of the most significant and burdensome changes posed by the GPSR is the requirement for businesses selling into the EU to appoint an EU-based representative. This representative will be legally responsible for ensuring compliance with safety standards, creating substantial financial and administrative strain, especially for SMEs. Smaller businesses may find it challenging to afford these additional costs, which include not only the appointment of a representative but also maintaining the infrastructure to support compliance.
Adapting to the new regulation will necessitate investment in compliance processes such as updated product testing, labelling, and supply chain audits. For SMEs, these costs could be prohibitive, further complicating their ability to compete in the EU market.
Supply chains will also need close examination. Businesses may need to renegotiate contracts or find new suppliers capable of meeting GPSR standards, further adding to the operational strain.
Despite these challenges, GPSR offers opportunities. Its focus on traceability aligns with consumer demand for sustainable fashion, allowing brands that emphasise transparency and eco-friendly practices to stand out in the EU market. Sustainability-focused businesses may find this an opportunity to strengthen their brand reputation and appeal to ethically minded consumers.
However, post-Brexit complexities add another layer of difficulty. As UK regulations diverge from the GPSR, businesses must navigate conflicting legal standards. Staying informed about regulatory landscapes on both sides of the channel is essential to avoid compliance pitfalls and maintain seamless operations.
How to Prepare
To navigate these changes, businesses might consider auditing their supply chains to identify areas where materials and processes need adjustment. This review could help clarify what is required to meet the new standards.
Investing in training could be beneficial as well. Educating teams on GPSR requirements might enable businesses to develop a more effective compliance strategy and address challenges with greater confidence.
Strengthening sustainability efforts could also help. Transparent labelling and ethical sourcing might not only ensure compliance but also position businesses favourably with consumers increasingly drawn to sustainable practices.
Finally, engaging with industry bodies may be a valuable step. Collaborating with trade associations could provide businesses with updated regulatory information, shared resources, and support networks for navigating these challenges.
Given the limited information currently available about GPSR, businesses should remain flexible and vigilant as further details emerge. Regularly reviewing updates from EU authorities and seeking professional guidance may help reduce uncertainty and improve preparedness.
Conclusion
The GPSR presents a considerable challenge for the UK fashion industry, particularly for SMEs, which are likely to face significant financial and operational pressures in meeting the new requirements. With limited clarity available at this stage, businesses face the dual task of preparing for compliance while navigating uncertainty. However, the regulation also offers an opportunity for forward-thinking brands to align with consumer expectations for sustainability and transparency. To thrive under the GPSR, UK fashion brands must stay proactive, informed, and ready to adapt as more information becomes available.
Listen to webinar recording from UK Department for Business and Trade (DBT) on GPSR guidance here
Fashion Roundtable Library: Dangerous Bodies by Dr. Royce Mahawatte and Jacki Willson
Fashion is more than just clothing, it’s a medium through which we navigate power, identity, and societal norms. Dangerous Bodies by Dr. Royce Mahawatte and Jacki Willson offers an incisive exploration of how the human body, clothed or otherwise, has historically been a site of both oppression and defiance. This thought-provoking book examines themes like beauty standards, sexuality, and political resistance, weaving together cultural criticism with rich historical and theoretical insights.
Royce Mahawatte, an expert in Gothic studies and Victorian culture, brings a deep understanding of how historical narratives shape modern identities. Jacki Willson, a scholar specializing in performance and gender, adds a nuanced perspective on the body as a performative space. Together, they create a compelling dialogue about how fashion interacts with power structures and the human experience.
For anyone interested in the intersections of fashion, identity, and social change, Dangerous Bodies is a must read. It challenges us to rethink the cultural significance of what we wear and how we wear it. Add it to your library for a deeper understanding of the body as a dynamic and contested space within the world of fashion.
Royce was the lead researcher for Fashion Roundtable's Representation and Inclusion in the Fashion Industry report and you can hear his podcast about this work with Davina Appiagyei in our back catalogue of podcasts here